Different methods of applying base, contour, accent, highlight, and liner help enhance specific eye shapes. The following techniques are detailed according to eye shape. In each application below, begin by applying the base color from the lash line to the brow. Finish each application with mascara.
Average: Apply contour along lash line, then along crease for a V-shape. Blend the application. Create a wedge at the outer corner using an accent color. Line upper and lower lashes.
Wide Set: The emphasis is on the inside half of the eye above the crease. Apply contour shade along lash line from inside corner out, then back along crease to inner corner. Add an accent color in a small wedge at outer corner, being careful not to extend beyond the edge. Line upper lashes from corner to corner, adding a little lift at the outside. Line lower lashes and gently smudge.
Close Set: The emphasis is on the out half of the eye. Apply contour shade along lash line and in along crease, starting above outer edge of iris, extending beyond outside corner and up. Blend the application. Make a large wedge at outer corner with the accent color. Line upper lashes from inside edge or iris past outside corner of eye. Emphasize mascara application on outer lashes.
Deep Set: The key is to lessen the shadows on the inside corner and make the brow bone area look less recessed. Apply more base color at the inside corner of the lid. Apply contour shade out along lash line and in along crease, stopping just above th einner edge of the iris. Add a little more color under lower lashes from inside edge of iris to outer corner. Add accent color lightly along crease, blending well. Line upper lashes from inside corner to just past outside corner, lower lashes from outside corner in to just below the pupil, gently smudging.
Prominent Lids: The key is to contour below the crease to draw attention away from how much lid is exposed and to emphasize the upper lash line. Add contour shade over entire eye socket, blending carefully. Apply accent color along lash line from inside corner to slightly past outside corner, then in below crease instead of along it. Line upper lashes from inside corner out, with the line getting thicker at the outside corner. Line lower lashes, then gently smudge upper and lower line application.
Hooded Lids: The key is to use color to make it seem as though more of the lid is showing. Apply contour shade on lid from corner to corner, extending slightly above crease, and under lower lashes, working from outside corner to inside edge of iris. Apply accent color close to lash line above center of pupil and blend outward. Line upper lashes corner to corner, lower lashes from outside corner to inside of iris.
